Each custom piece we design is a world of its own, an artistic endeavor that Nad undertakes with extreme care towards each and every detail.
One of Nad’s most celebrated creations is a structured, square-shouldered suit in a shade just a touch lighter than navy. The make is similar to a British cut — something that’s evident in the length of the jacket, sloping gorge and bellied lapel.
We love suits in pin- or chalk stripes, with an anachronistic feel. In this case, a beige stripe creates a vintage aesthetic. This is in contrast with a formal cut featured substantial padding, although other shoulder proportions are fairly moderate. The width (the length of the shoulder seam, from collar to shoulder) is 16,5 cm.
The sleeve head is narrow, and slightly raised. But it’s hardly dramatic roping – merely a solid stop to the shoulder line. More distinctive is the height of the buttoning point, which is low at 51,45 cm. Indeed, it’s the lowest of the tailors featured here, and just doesn’t appear so because the jacket itself is long (81,6 cm).
With that in mind, the lapel line is long, enhanced by the slimness of the lapel (8,25cm at the lapel’s point) as well as the angle of the gorge. The gorge line follows the seam between the lapel and the collar. On most English suits, this line slopes downwards, and is straight. On most Italians, it is a little flatter and curves a little upwards along its length.
It’s interesting to consider the effect created by the relative narrowness, lower height (10,8cm from the shoulder seam) and angle of the gorge on this suit. The trousers will please those who favor a more generous, and perhaps more “traditional” cut. They have a 42,50cm circumference at the bottom, and measure 50,15cm at the knee.
Elsewhere, this jacket has little to no drape, slightly open quarters and a slightly shaped back seam. All pretty moderate, in other words, particularly for an English suit. The waist suppression is not large, but it is high.
With bespoke, you have the ability to fit the waist to the customer, and to play around with the buttoning point to change the visual effect. That’s just one of the many reasons to opt for custom-made clothing over ready-to-wear. Here, we cut that waist fairly close under the ribs, lengthening the impression of the bottom half of the jacket. But as noted, the buttoning point is fairly low.
The suit is worn with a pink spread-collar shirt and black knitted tie. Some say that no elegant man thinks a black tie is just for funerals, and we’re inclined to agree. Certainly, it pairs well with a pink shirt. The jade-green ikat-print handkerchief is quite bright and strong, but stands out less when there’s such a high contrast shirt/tie combination going on.
We opted for very dark shoes with a monk strap to finish off the foundation of the look.
- Shoulder width: 15,85 cm
- Shoulder padding: Strong
- Sleevehead: Slightly raised, narrow
- Sleeve: Slim upper arm, then straight to 28,55 cm cuff
- Lapel: 8,25 cm, slight belly
- Gorge height: 10,85 cm
- Drape: Small
- Outbreast pocket height: 28,95 cm
- Buttoning point: Low, 51,45 cm
- Waist suppression: Moderate
- Quarters: Relatively open, straight
- Length: 81,6 cm
- Back seam: Quite shaped
- Vent height: High, 26,65 cm
- Trouser width at knee: 50,15 cm
- Trouser width at cuff: 42,55 cm
Like what you see? We’d be delighted to design you a custom look from head to toe. It’s our pleasure at Nad Lawrence to create one-of-a-kind pieces that exude elegance and sophistication. Take your first step towards a stellar first impression by capturing your own measurements using a simple app. Send them to Nad, and he’ll throw in a showstopper of a deal: 50% off.